Chocolate Through the Years
The story of chocolate, as far back as we know
it, begins with the discovery of America. Until 1492, the Old World knew nothing
at all about the delicious and stimulating flavor that was to become the favorite
of millions.
The Court of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella
got its first look at the principal ingredient of chocolate when Columbus
returned in triumph from America and laid before the Spanish throne a treasure
trove of many strange and wonderful things. Among these were a few dark brown
beans that looked like almonds and seemed most unpromising. They were cocoa
beans, today’s source of all our chocolate and cocoa.
The King and Queen never dreamed how important
cocoa beans could be, and it remained for Hernando Cortez, the great Spanish
explorer, to grasp the commercial possibilities of the New World offerings.
Food of the Gods
During his conquest of Mexico, Cortez found the
Aztec Indians using cocoa beans in the preparation of the royal drink of the realm,
chocolatl, meaning warm liquid. In 1519, Emperor Montezuma, who reportedly drank
50 or more portions daily, served chocolatl to his Spanish guests in great golden
goblets, treating it like a food for the gods.
For all its regal importance, however, Montezuma’s
chocolatl was very bitter, and the Spaniards did not find it to their taste. To
make the concoction more agreeable to Europeans, Cortez and his countrymen conceived
of the idea of sweetening it with cane sugar.
While they took chocolatl back to Spain, the
idea found favor and the drink underwent several more changes with newly discovered
spices, such as cinnamon and vanilla. Ultimately, someone decided the drink
would taste better if served hot.
The new drink won friends, especially among the
Spanish aristocracy. Spain wisely proceeded to plant cocoa in its overseas colonies,
which gave birth to a very profitable business. Remarkably enough, the Spanish
succeeded in keeping the art of the cocoa industry a secret from the rest of Europe
for nearly a hundred years.
Chocolate Spreads to Europe
Spanish monks, who had been consigned to process
the cocoa beans, finally let the secret out. It did not take long before chocolate
was acclaimed throughout Europe as a delicious, health-giving food. For a while
it reigned as the drink at the fashionable Court of France. Chocolate drinking
spread across the Channel to Great Britain, and in 1657 the first of many
famous English Chocolate Houses appeared.
The hand methods of manufacture used by small
shops gave way in time to the mass production of chocolate. The transition was
hastened by the advent of a perfected steam engine which mechanized the cocoa grinding
process. By 1730, chocolate had dropped in price from three dollars or more per
pound to within the financial reach of all.
The invention of the cocoa press in 1828 reduced
the prices even further and helped to improve the quality of the beverage by squeezing
out part of the cocoa butter, the fat that occurs naturally in cocoa beans.
From then on, drinking chocolate had more of the smooth consistency and the
pleasing flavor it has today.
The 19th Century marked two more revolutionary
developments in the history of chocolate. In 1847, an English company introduced
solid “eating chocolate” through the development of fondant chocolate, a smooth
and velvety variety that has almost completely replaced the old coarse-grained chocolate
which formerly dominated the world market. The second development occurred in
1876 in Vevey, Switzerland, when Daniel Peter devised a way of adding milk to
the chocolate, creating the product we enjoy today known as milk chocolate.
Chocolate Comes To America
In the United States of America, the production
of chocolate proceeded at a faste pace than anywhere else in the world. It was in
the prerevolutionary New England–1765, to be exact–that the first chocolate
factory was established. Chocolate has gained so much importance since that
time, that any interruption in its supply would be keenly felt.
During World War II, the U.S. government
recognized chocolate’s role in the nourishment and group spirit of the Allied
Armed Forces, so much so that it allocated valuable shipping space for the importation
of cocoa beans. Many soldiers were thankful for the pocket chocolate bars which
gave them the strength to carry on until more food rations could be obtained.
Today, the U.S. Army D-rations include three
4-ounce chocolate bars. Chocolate has even been taken into space as part of the
diet of U.S. astronauts.
Growing the Cocoa Bean
Cocoa beans are the product of the cacao tree.
The origin of the cacao tree is in dispute. Some say it originated in the Amazon
basin of Brazil, others place it in the Orinoco Valley of Venezuela, while
still others contend that it is native to Central America.
Wherever its first home, we know the cacao tree
is strictly a tropical plant thriving only in hot, rainy climates. Thus, its cultivation
is confined to the lands not more than 20 degrees north or south of the equator.
The Need For Shelter
The cacao tree is very delicate and sensitive.
It needs protection from the wind and requires a fair amount of shade under most
conditions. This is true especially in its first two to four years of growth.
A newly planted cacao seedling is often
sheltered by a different type of tree. It is normal to plant food crops for
shade, such as banana, plantain, coconuts or cocoyams. Rubber trees and forest
trees are also used for shade. Once established, however, cacao trees can grow
in full sunlight, provided there are fertile soil conditions and intensive
husbandry. Cacao plantations (trees under cultivation), and estates, usually in
valleys or coastal plains, must have evenly distributed rainfall and rich,
well-drained soil.
As a general rule, cacao trees get their start
in a nursery bed where seeds from high-yielding trees are planted in fiber baskets
or plastic bags. The seedlings grow so fast that in a few months they are ready
for transplanting, container and all.
The First Fruit
With pruning and careful cultivation, the trees
of most strains will begin bearing fruit in the fifth year. With extreme care, some
strains can be induced to yield good crops in the third and fourth years.
Everything about the tree is just as colorful as
its history. An evergreen, the cacao tree has large glossy leaves that are red
when young and green when mature.
Overlays of clinging moss and colorful lichens
are often found on the bark of the trunk, and in some areas beautiful small orchids
grow on its branches. The tree sprouts thousands of tiny waxy pink or white five-petaled
blossoms that cluster together on the trunk and older branches. But, only 3 to
10 percent will go on to mature into full fruit.
The fruit, which will eventually be converted
into the world’s chocolate and cocoa, has green or sometimes maroon-colored
pods on the trunk of the tree and its main branches. Shaped somewhat like an
elongated melon tapered at both ends, these pods often ripen into a golden color
or sometimes take on a scarlet hue with multicolored flecks.
At its maturity, the cultivated tree measures
from 15 to 25 feet tall, though the tree in its wild state may reach 60 feet or
more. The potential age of a tree is open to speculation. There are individual
trees known to be over 200 years of age, but no one has determined the real
life span of the species. However, in 25 years the economic usefulness of a
tree may be considered at an end, and it often becomes desirable to replant
with younger trees.
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